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Restaurant review charts - week ending 02 October
Our latest fortnightly round-up of the latest London restaurant reviews from the top UK critics as they are added to our reviewssection. This week we see some strong starts for Ducksoup, Putney Pies and 40 Maltby Street, while Gordon Ramsay's Bread Street Kitchen gets off to a promising start too. Ducksoup - overall score 8/10 (new entry)
Richard Godwin - Evening Standard Choice quote: "Ducksoup was mood-alteringly good. If only it offered a modest selection of sides - there is an irritating lack of carbohydrate and greens on offer - I would say perfect." Putney Pies - overall score 8/10 (new entry)
Joshi Herrmann - Evening Standard Choice quote: "Generous portions, tasty fare and sub-Nando's prices make Putney Pies a welcome outpost of Britishness in an otherwise wilderness of continental cuisine." Hedone - overall score 8/10 (no change)
John Lanchester - Guardian Choice quote: "(Jonsson's) cooking is all about getting the very best possible ingredients – in which this country is rich, much richer than it realises – and then emphasising rather than denaturing their flavours. At its best, Hedone does this brilliantly." 40 Maltby Street - overall score 8/10 (new entry)
Euan Ferguson - Time Out Choice quote: "Many dishes were served straight from the kitchen by the chefs themselves, or by the earnest young staff, who clearly care a lot about what they do." Wolfgang Puck's Cut - overall score 7.5/10 (up 0.5)
Zoe Williams - Telegraph Choice quote: "Much was good and the excellent bits were off the scale. If you're a carnivore in its true sense – you're genuinely not interested in foods that aren't meat – then you'll love it." AA Gill - Sunday Times Choice quote: "So, as a steak restaurant, Cut is pretty damn good. The service is efficient, effusive and terrified... The atmosphere is friendly without warmth, erotic without libido, experienced rather than sophisticated." Timothy Barber - City AM Choice quote: "... there’s fine steak to suit all tastes now, and more to come. That’s a very good thing – and even if I find CUT too fanch-shmancy by half, I’d hold nothing against those (and there will be many) who’ll find it the bees knees." Yashin Sushi - overall score 7.5/10 (down 1)
Matthew Norman - Telegraph Choice quote: "The rice was perfect and the fish indisputably first rate and beautifully prepared, yet on the quest for exquisiteness all the raw life had somehow been prissified out of it." Bistro du Vin Soho - overall score 7.5/10 (down 1.5)
Jay Rayner - Observer Choice quote: "The list is intriguing, if hardly full of bargains, and there's a good selection by the glass. But none of that makes up for a meal which was notable for all the things that were wrong, not for all the things that were right." Bread Street Kitchen - overall score 7/10 (new entry)
Guy Dimond - Time Out Choice quote: "It's affordable, democratically priced and no-nonsense, with speedy service." David Sexton - Evening Standard Choice quote: "...Bread Street Kitchen is a huge addition, challenging Jamie head-on, and greatly to be preferred to the lamentable Madison on the top floor of One New Change. It may well thrive." NOPI - overall score 7/10 (down 0.5)
AA Gill - Sunday Times Choice quote: "The good things were fine, the more actual cooking that was involved, the more surely the dishes defeated the kitchen. The service was charm itself." Galoupet - overall score 7/10 (down 0.5)
Amol Rajan - Telegraph Choice quote: "For reasons I cannot fathom, at the end of the meal we are shown the retail list, so that only then is it clear how much extra we're paying for the privilege of sitting in this long, thin room, with its clinically white upholstery and tilted mirrors." Zoe Strimpel - City AM Choice quote: "Galoupet can obviously do vegetables and understands what is meant by “light dishes”. They’ve tried to make a virtue of them and almost succeed." St John Hotel - overall score 7/10 (no change)
Andy Lynes - Metro Choice quote: "The room positively crackles with energy, making a meal here a genuinely uplifting experience." Hibiscus - overall score 7/10 (no change)
Jay Rayner - London Magazine Choice quote: "Like so much of the food here – even the stuff that doesn’t quite work – it shows an enthusiasm, a willingness to push at the edges." Manchurian Legends - overall score 7/10 (down 0.5)
Giles Coren - Times Choice quote: "The cooking is good in parts. Although the butchery that comes before the cooking is hellish. As if they had used not a knife but a sledgehammer." Roux at the Landau - overall score 7/10 (no change)
Andy Lynes - Metro Choice quote: "Unless you’ve got a business deal to shout about to your three besuited chums or are a group of ladies of a certain age who lunch, you’ll need a very good reason to blow big bucks in this grand hotel dining room." The Fox and Grapes - overall score 6.5/10 (no change)
Zoe Williams - Telegraph Choice quote: "This is the sort of place, I bet, where the locals are so loyal that, if you say anything mean, they track you down and beat you to death." Senkai - overall score 6.5/10 (no change)
Chris Pople - Cheese & Biscuits Choice quote: "...for sheer flare, passion and charm, you can do little better for Japanese food in London. Cocoon is dead - long live Senkai." David Sexton - Evening Standard Choice quote: "This was not one of those Japanese meals leaving that clean, fat-free feel in the mouth." The 10 Cases - overall score 5/10 (down 1)
Guy Dimond - Time Out Choice quote: "The dishes, and standard of cooking, might be described as French dinner party food. However, West End prices are charged for simple dishes of a merely adequate standard."
Café Rouge Villers Street, WC2 Tracey MacLeod - Independent: "I know, I know. Critic goes to chain restaurant and has a bad time. Not exactly headline news, is it? But I genuinely hoped for better. Still, if ever a restaurant was critic-proof, it's this one." Rosa's Westfield Stratford, First Floor Andy Lynes - Metro: "Although dry chicken satay, an underpowered pad Thai and oddly tasteless Thai milk iced tea disappoint, Rosa’s generally over-delivers on quality, value and flavour so that it very nearly transcends its pit-of-hell food court surroundings." To see how more restaurants are rated, view all our restaurant reviews. |
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